Deep red dunes and incredible landscapes populated by oryx, rocky outcrops and meandering canyons are only some of the beautiful things you’ll find in the Sossusvlei area inside the Namib Naukluft National Park in Namibia.
This incredible park is so vast and stunning that you’ll want to ensure you stay in a great place close by to explore its many dunes and hidden areas.
Right outside the park, there is a small town called Sesriem. Sesriem has only a couple of hotels and Desert Quiver Camp is 3km away from the gate.
How to get there
Desert Quiver Camp is located only 3.3km away from the Namib Naukluft National Park entry, where you can find Hiddenvlei, Deadvlei, Dune 45 and Elim dune, among others.
You access the private nature reserve, where the camp is located, via a tar road and the last km is on a good gravel road. If Quiver Camp does not have any availability then you can book at their sister property, Desert Camp, which is very similar in style and décor and just around the rock outcrop.
Desert Quiver Camp lodge
The common area is formed by a reception, two barbecue areas, the bar and a pool. Each of the two barbecue areas has a firepit, picnic table and a little porch, as well as a kitchen that is kept locked. You can braai in your own room, where you have a barbecue or in the common area, which is the only place where much noise is allowed.
The staff are incredible and reception is open from 6am until 8pm. They can organize activities if you want them guided as well as breakfast, lunch and dinner at the sister lodge, Sossusvlei lodge, a mere 2km away.
The bar area is covered and has high stools, a grassy patch with picnic tables and a pool area with lounge chairs. It is all resting underneath the rock outcrop making it very picturesque to stay there.
As the lodge is in a nature reserve, there are wildebeest around, you can find them (generally alone) scattered around the lodge. Remember that they are wild animals and should be avoided. There’s a waterhole in front of the lodge and seeing a wildebeest there is a common occurrence.
The rooms
There are 24 uniquely designed rooms, with the reception and bar/pool area in the middle and the rooms on each side. Each room has its own driveway where you can park your car.
Inside, you have a double bed (made up of two single beds) and a futon (sleeper couch), with an aircon and a fan unit. The bathroom and shower are behind the bed, with a wall used as a separator. The bathroom is open plan, with no doors for the toilet or shower. You have a full-size mirror and a closet area with a safe big enough to store your documents and a laptop.
Your porch has a picnic table and a very hidden kitchenette, covered by canvas flaps that can be rolled up to reveal it. It can get quite windy in the desert so not only does it protect your utensils but it also hides it away, blending in nicely with the environment.
It has tea, coffee, a kettle, mini fridge and a double stove. You can use your own cooking utensils if you have them or get a cutlery and crockery box from reception for a 300 Namibian dollar deposit, which is returned upon returning the box if nothing is broken or missing.
There is a barbeque right outside your own house, so you can cook there too.
What you’ll love
If you’re looking for affordable and quirky accommodation, with all the comforts but very close to the gates, this lodge is for you.
The pool and bar area underneath the rock outcrop creates a stunning landscape to relax in and watch the sunset from.
Kruger National Park spans over four hundred and fifty thousand square kilometres in South Africa. Visiting the park is one of the single most incredible things you can do in the country. Doing so driving in your own car adds a completely different layer to the experience.
Unsure what time of the year is best to go and more importantly which camps to book or how to locate the animals? Don’t stress, I’m about to give you all of my ‘self-driving in the Kruger’ tips below.
Without a guide you will have to rely on your own eyes only to spot the animals. They roam freely and how many you manage to see will depend mostly on your luck. With a little planning around roads and timing you could improve your chances dramatically.
Are you ready to tackle your self-driving safari? In this article, you’ll find all the information needed to plan and be your very own safari guide.
Where is Kruger National Park
Kruger National Park is one of 21 national parks in South Africa. You can find it on the eastern border of the country, neighbouring Mozambique to the east and Zambia to the North.
Kruger National Guard contains four hundred and fifty thousand square kilometres… it is as large as Wales or Israel! It is a prime destination for first timers or regular safari-goers as one can regularly see all of the big 5 (along with many other animals) in the park.
Kruger National Park is on the eastern side of South Africa. You arrive either by air or road and the closest big city is Johannesburg.
Driving from Johannesburg takes between 4 and 6 hours, depending on which area of the Kruger you’re going to.
Johannesburg and Cape Town have direct flights to the three airports servicing Kruger National Park. These airports are smaller and flights tend to be pricier. For the north of the Kruger, you can fly to Hoedspruit (HDS). For the south you fly to Skukuza Airport (next to Skukuza camp SZK) or Nelspruit Airport (MQP).
Why do a self-driving safari in Kruger?
If you’ve been on safari before with a ranger and guide and loved the experience, perhaps you want to challenge yourself to try and spot the animals yourself.
If you have never been on safari but are interested in either keeping your costs down or are excited by the idea of learning a lot of animal facts on your own, self-driving is an amazing option.
In both cases, you will need a map of the park, sold at every shop inside the park. I recommend Tinker’s map (2nd edition currently).
It has images of all the animals, maps of roads and clearly marked distances. They have information about each camp and its grounds too. You can get it in Italian, Spanish, English or German.
After having been on safari many times before with a guide, I missed hearing about animal facts during the drives. (e.g what do you call a group of giraffes? Tower of giraffes. And a group of hippos? A pod of hippos! etc.) so having a booklet full of animal facts can prove very useful.
If you already know some of these facts as we did, we googled our remaining ‘questions of the day’ once we were back at the camp and learned so much out of sheer curiosity. (learning by yourself when you’re interested is so much easier than in school, right?!)
What type of car do you need to self-drive in the park and what else to bring?
Many roads in the Kruger are tarred, especially the main roads connecting the camps with the outside gates. Gravel roads are very well maintained which means you don’t need a high clearance or a 4×4 car to drive around the park. You can definitely do it in a regular city car.
If you rent a car don’t go for a Mini but we saw plenty of small Peugeots and Audis. The signs for the few roads that aren’t suitable for all types of cars are clearly marked as ‘4×4 only’.
When is the best time of year to go to Kruger NP?
The best season to visit the Kruger is during the dry months, between June and September. Those are also the winter months which means it is much colder at night, early morning and in the evening.
Between 5:30 am and 9 am and then between 2:30 pm and 5:30 pm are the most common slots. During these times the temperature can drop quite low. You are only driving between 10km to 20km/hour with all your windows rolled down. It can get really cold.
I recommend having many layers. Perhaps a beanie or scarf to cover your whole face if you need to when it is really cold. During winter days it can also get super hot when the sun comes up. Having different options and layers that you can shed as it heats up is going to be your best bet.
In summer it’s the exact opposite and temperatures rise very quickly. Although, at the beginning of the day it is also necessary to have a jersey of sorts. You might want to layer up and even consider a scarf to cover your face. Driving with the air hitting your face can be very uncomfortable at times.
Because you’re going to be self-driving, there’s no need to dress in any specific way, you just want to make sure that your jersey or t-shirt which is what the animals could see through the windows is not a very bright colour.
Try to dress in neutral colours like black, white, beige khaki green in order to blend in with the environment.
Another season that’s very interesting to visit the Kruger during is the green season between the end of December and the beginning of March.
It is the green season as the rains have arrived and the vegetation is looking lush, which does make it harder to spot the animals but it is also the breeding season for many animals, meaning that you’ll be able to see cubs and cute baby animals and increases the possibility of spotting a predator taking down a younger animal as well.
We did our most recent safari in August so while we had some challenges finding availability, the animal sightings were amazing!
How to keep costs down while on a self-drive safari in Kruger
Self-driving vs going to a lodge is already substantially cheaper. To give you a quick comparison, prices at the lodges generally start at around 240€/4175R per person per night including accommodation, three meals and two game drives a day. You can read more about what booking a lodge in the Kruger is like.
If you are staying in the public area, campsites start at around R350/20,3€ and can have up to 6 people each. The public area camps also have rondavels (African round bungalows), safari tents or bungalows available starting at R1500/86€.
If you want to save costs but aren’t sure about self-driving or your ability to spot the animals yourself then all campsites offer various activities, including morning game drives, afternoon game drives, night game drives, bush braais (barbeques) and walking safaris.
Each camp has a slightly different offering. For a game drive, you can expect to pay around R350/20,3€ per person and you will ride in an open-air vehicle with an expert guide and still be paying a significant amount less than you would have at a lodge.
Where to stay in the Kruger: best camps and areas
The Kruger is so vast that it is split into smaller subsections. The southern section of the park is the busiest. It has a very high quantity of game, which makes it appealing to visitors, but you’ll also find many cars competing for each sighting (especially with some of the harder animals to see, like lions or leopards).
The middle area, including the camps of Letaba and Satara, is less busy than the south and has many different biomes and landscapes. The game here is also abundant!
From Olifants camp to the north, the area is less visited and has many fewer vehicles but then the game is also less abundant. The northernmost area is called Pafuri, and although I have not been yet, everyone agrees it is great for antelope and birding, and while there are fewer predators, the landscapes are unrivalled in their beauty.
Kruger National Park Best camps
Views from Mopani Camp Restaurant
LETABA is a great starting camp with both campsites and cabins, a small shop and a fuel station. The camp has shady areas, many big trees and follows the Letaba river closely but not too close to camp) where you can see waterbuck, hippo and elephant. It has a number of gravel loops and roads surrounding the camp making for interesting and varied game drives.
MOPANI has incredible views of the Mopani river with often sightings of elephants across the restaurant terrace/river. The area has dense mopane forest, making it more difficult to spot animals but ideal for elephants.
OLIPHANTS is on a hill overlooking the Olifants River. It is a different landscape from many camps as it is on a hill and vegetation and views are very different, providing an amazing view of the Olifants River. You can see the river from the restaurant terrace (far away, ideal with binoculars) with waterbuck and elephants.
SATARA has campsites and cabins, a good shop, restaurant and a fuel station. It’s considered big cat territory because it’s surrounded by wide plains making it easier to spot wildlife. It has great Big 5 sightings. The S100, S39 and H7 roads are good routes to try.
SKUKUZA is the biggest camp in the Kruger with many different restaurants, shops, a spa and more than 60 bungalows. Even though it is big it doesn’t feel overly crowded. The game around the camp is abundant (but you will fight other cars for big 5 sightings). The road between Skukuza and Lower Sabie is great for animal sightings and busy with cars at all times. The De Laporte waterhole may seem unimpressive but it is great for a patient game drive, as many animals will go there at one point during the day to drink.
LOWER SABIE is another busy camp in the South, with incredible game viewing opportunities. It overlooks the Lower Sabie Dam (quite close to the restaurant terrace). Take the H10 and S128 for great sightings.
PRETORIOUSKOP is the highest camp in the park, located between granite outcrops. Because it gets the most rainfall in the park, vegetation is always lush here and spotting game is harder, but great sightings have been spotted around this camp too!
BERG EN DAL is set on the rocky mountains close to one of the entrances of the park, with amazing wildlife sightings. It is one of my favourite camps because it has scenic views and many gravel roads and loops to take. It is the closest camp to Johannesburg and has plenty of trees to camp under. There are walking trails inside the fenced permitter. Renoster pan on the H3 can be great in the middle of the day for plain game. We’ve seen warthog, elephant, giraffe and impala at once, all in the same place.
BIYAMITI is one of the smaller bush camps without a shop or restaurant. It’s on a private road, only accessible through a booking with the camp. It has great sundowner spots and is an excellent area for rhino, lion and leopard.
Best time of the day to go out on Game Drives
Animals are generally more active during the first hours of the day and the last hours of the afternoon. During those hours the sun is lower and it is less hot. Being on safari implies being on the sun’s clock and trying to follow it closely.
The morning game drives are from between 5 am/6 am depending on the season until 9 am approximately. You can stay out longer if you find interesting sights or if you’re travelling far to have lunch at a different lodge and cover more distance in one day.
The afternoon game drives are between 2h30/3h30pm to around 5h30 or 6 pm. It depends on the gates and camps various closing times. You need to be in or out of your camp based on the park’s timing. Check with reception when you arrive or make use of the clocks at the exit of each camp.
Ideal 3 to 5 night stay in the Kruger
1 night Letaba and drive to Mopani in the morning. Drive all ‘loops’ from the tar road on the way down.
1 night Satara (cat territory) H4 and H6 in particular.
2 nights Skukuza and drive to Lower Sabie and the H10.
1 night Berg-en-Dal, an incredible camp with great wildlife sightings.
If you’d like to stay away from the busy south (Crocodile bridge, Pretoriouskop, Lower Sabie, Skukuza) consider doing Satara Camp, Letaba, Olifants and Timbavati satellite camp.
Self-drive rules inside the park
With your entrance ticket, you’ll get a flyer with information on all the rules that must be obeyed during your stay in the park and especially while you’re self-driving.
Some of the rules are very logical like ‘stay in the car’ and yet not everyone follows them. I urge you to read the rules. Do not behave in any way that could disturb the animals, endanger you or ruin sightings for other visitors.
During my stays, I have seen numerous people raising half of their bodies or cameras out of the window, sitting on windowsills or popping out of the roof to see animals from there. All these behaviours are prohibited. The animals (especially the most skittish ones) can get scared by shapes that they’re not used to.
While they are very used to the shape of cars if you pop out from the roof that’s something they don’t understand and can easily get frightened by. It can also get them into protection mode for their families or cubs which can result in dangerous behaviours directed at the “attacker”.
Things to know about Kruger National Park
Health: Kruger is in a malaria area so taking precautions is advised. Talk to your doctor so they can recommend the best treatment for you. Not all mosquito bites carry malaria but at night you should try and cover your ankles and arms to avoid getting bitten. Bringing mosquito repellent is also advised as well as After Bite.
Photo equipment: All photos in my article and blog are taken with a 24-70mm lens or a 70-300mm lens on my full frame Canon camera. You do get close to animals in the Kruger so binoculars are not a must. You’re not often close enough that your photos will be great without a zoom. If you have a greater than 300mm lens bring it along to get better close ups of the animals.
Power: all outlets are South African. You can buy adapters at the shops to convert power from the campsites to your camp. If you’re staying at a camp without a shop but have your own fridge, lights etc make sure to stop at another camp to buy the adaptor.
Signal: most camps have 3G signal but no wifi. You cannot do decent video calls from most camps, but you might get 4G from time to time. If you’re in need of reliable 4G for video calls inside the Kruger you’re going to struggle. Your best bet are the camps very close to the park’s border.
Looking for a secluded and unique escape in Catalunya? This is the list of the most quirky, different and out of the ordinary accommodations on offer!
There are many beautiful places to stay in Catalunya but if you’re like me and want the cabin or hotel itself to be really special – then this article is for you.
These are the 12 most unique places to stay in Catalunya, from treehouses to domes to vineyard barracks. All of them are within driving distance from Barcelona, Girona, Tarragona or Lleida, so there’s no excuse to not visit soon.
Let’s dive in!
The 12 Most Unique places to stay in Catalunya
Luxury treehouse: Cabanyes entre valls
These incredible treehouses with never-ending views of the valley in front of them have everything you could ask for from a hideaway. The latest wooden décor and amenities, your own bathroom and a private jacuzzi on the terrace.
Their breakfasts are km0 and include meat or vegan options to choose from. All of the ingredients are fresh and hoisted up to your treehouse via your own pulley system!
Image staying in a room made with opaque class? And what if it integrates a garden and running water? A very different and quite mysterious hotel, Les Cols has different pavilions made from opaque mirrors creating a unique indoor room like no other.
Stay on this hotel for a completely different experience paired with a great restaurant on the premises. Their website is also cryptic making the whole idea of your stay even more enticing.
The first treehouse hotel in Catalunya, Cabanes als Arbres is located in a beautiful forest of tall trees with many treehouses of various heights scattered throughout the treetops. Each has unique décor and views, you’ll find a double bed, a jug with water, a sink for washing and an ecological fireplace and toilet.
They offer rechargeable lamps for ambience as well as walkie talkies to reach the reception in case you needed anything. Breakfast is delivered to your treehouse and you can pull it up you’re your own pullie system too! Common ablutions and charging facilities are available at the main house.
If you’ve ever wanted to enjoy the starry night sky from the comfort of your own bed, a bubble suite is ideal for you. Stargaze from your ample suite made from 3 joined bubbles. The first one features the main bedroom, the second one has the bathroom and the third one is the lounge and living area.
Each comes with your own private garden with lounge chairs and a dining table if you choose to take your breakfast al fredo. You can order dinner too to be delivered to your private bubble if you’re not feeling like going to the restaurant.
Price: starting from 175€ per night with breakfast
If the views of endless vineyards make your heart flutter and drinking wine is one of your favourite activities, this cabin is for you. Spend your nights in a traditional stone house, originally created to house the vineyard master many years ago, and now refurbished to offer an incredible experience amongst the grapes.
Their basic package includes bed and breakfast and an exclusive wine tasting in their cellar.
Price: Starting from 150€ with B&B and exclusive wine tasting in their cellar
Ever wondered what life in a circus is like? At circ Raluy you can book one of their quirky caravans and stay after their show to get a glimpse of the private circus life.
With each ticket, you not only get access to the caravan and the show but also VIP backstage with the performers so you can spend time with them after the show and see what their daily lives are.
You’ll sleep in an authentic caravan of the circus. Ideal for families with young kids.
If you’ve ever dreamed of a tiny vintage campervan, these retro vans were made for you. Each is painted in a different bright colour so you can choose your favourite easily during the booking process.
Each campervan has a double bed, a fridge, a kitchenette and plug points inside. Your outside area has a picnic table covered by a little porch to create some shade. Ablutions are shared.
Do you love unique accommodations but aren’t sure which type is your favourite? At Xalet de Prades you can pick between treehouses and domes or try out both in one weekend for two very unique sleeps.
Stargaze from the comfort of your bed or live life among the trees – your pick! Whichever your selection you’re guaranteed to have a very original room for sure.
Price: Treehouse and geodomes starting from 140€ per night with breakfast
The Pyrenees are a soft spot of mine, those forests are very special. Located on the Catalan Pyrenees, Forest Days provides glamping tents made from 100% cotton and your own little nook of paradise in the forest. Each unit has a 25m2 tent and an eco-friendly shed with a toilet.
The outdoor area has hammocks and different seating areas to relax in. If you’re visiting between mid-September and mid-October you’ll be interested in the wildlife experience of deer calling.
Very high up at between 5 and 9 metres, these wooden treehouses are amongst the treetops in a beautiful forest. When picking your treehouse read the descriptions so you can decide not only based on photos but their views (sunset, Natural park of Montseny..). These treehouses are all hexagonal, creating a different shape and being original about their architecture.
Similar to Cabanes als arbres above, they do not have any running water or toilets (only a chemical toilet) nor any lights. Lamps are provided for your comfort and common ablutions are available.
Price: starting from 135€ per night with breakfast
This super cute mini A-Frame is located in the beautiful campsite grounds of El Garrofer, where you can stay in a bungalow or a tent. The campsite is on the beautiful coastal town of Sitges, a short train ride from Barcelona and well known for their beach and gastronomy. You’re a-Frame includes a double bed with plug points, lights and mosquito nets as well as a private terrace with comfy lounge chairs.
This hotel is not unique for its rooms but for its ethos. It is the first 100% ecological hotel in the Iberian peninsula and the utmost care has been for the environment and their use of energy. They are inside of a nature reserve, have Green Globe certification, their energy consumption is incredibly efficient including a biomass heater as the main heating option.
They’ve used only km 0 materials and fabrics during building and décor massively reducing their footprint! They also provide Tesla charging points.
Price: Starting from 154€ per night with breakfast
There are many stunning wildlife experiences in Europe, and one that is commonly overlooked is the deer rutting season, otherwise called the deer mating season.
The beautiful mating calls of the stags will certainly draw your attention in the forests of Catalunya – yet many people don’t know where to go to enjoy this unique experience.
In today’s article, we will dive deep into the best place to go to see and hear the deers mating and at what time of year this takes place. It is one of the best animal spectacles you’ll find in the area – and it won’t definitely leave you feeling indifferent!
Let’s plan your ideal weekend away and get you ready to experience this wonderful wildlife eco-experience in Catalunya.
Image from a ground telescope
What is the deer calling or rut
It is on arrival of the ‘zeal period’ for deer which happens once a year and during which stag males start competing with other males for territory and the right to reproduce with the females.
They use different strategies like making dents on trees with their horns, peeing on to mark their territory and fighting with the other males. But the most noticeable of their zeal tactics is to call or ‘roar’.
Image from a ground telescope
They call from sunrise to around 11 am and start again at around 5 pm until dark. Does that remind you of the safari schedules in Africa, I bet so!
Their very loud calling is one of the tactics to attract females. Being in certain areas of the mountains while this phenomenon happens will give you the audio show of a lifetime! Their roar can be heard from far, many kilometres away.
What’s also special is that the stags are so focused on their roaring that fear for humans is relegated to a secondary position, allowing humans to get much closer to them than normal although not as close as a safari in Africa, you still need ground telescopes to see them, as they are not habituated.
With the idea of encouraging the population to come and see this roar, rangers will be positioned at different points on the mountains in Catalunya with binoculars and ground telescopes to assist spectators with tools and information on the deers.
Image from a ground telescope
How to organize the weekend around the deer calling
The roar or rut is the period when stags are most vocal, lasting about a month, from mid-September to mid-October. The middle two weeks are the loudest and hence the best weekends to experience the rut.
You can decide to go on your own or hire one of the accredited guides. As it was our first time we chose to hire one to have a personalized experience and learn as much as we could. On top of that, accredited guides have access to areas of the park not open to the public, so your chances of seeing stags from closer up are better.
We spent our mornings and sunsets next to one of the authorized viewpoints having the chance to speak with the ranger there who was fantastic.
This year (our second year) we will go on our own, still spending some time with the rangers to learn or revisit some concepts. They also have ground telescopes and binoculars that one can borrow and can help you focus in the right direction.
You definitely need a ground telescope for the observation or a very long (+400mm) zoom lens on a tripod.
What to bring to deer mating
In Catalunya, all the areas where deer live are around 2000m above sea level. You definitely need layers and layers of good clothing (we had these and were still really cold – so prepare yourself!). Temperatures were around 2ºC and as you will be standing for most of the day, listening and watching, it gets really cold, really fast!
Thermic long-sleeved t-shirt
Merino jumpers
Scarf
Ski coat
Beanie
Gloves
Thermic leggings and pants on top
Winter socks
Hiking boots
Camera with a zoom lens of at least 400mm (I had my 70-300mm and animals were too far away for any decent photos to be used)
My brother and I looking for deer
The average day of deer mating calls
Here’s how you are going to spend your day or weekend hearing the deers roar.
5 am: early wake up and drive to your observation point (Some are 2 hours away)
6 am – 11 am: listen and watch the rut
11am – 2pm: go back to Refugi de Cuberes (if in Boumort) for a hot meal and to warm up
2 pm – 4 pm: if you have a private guide you can go on a hike to different areas not open to the public. Be respectful with the rules and don’t try to hike on your own as you could be disturbing the animals
4 pm – 7 pm or later: see and listen to the deers again
Best spots to see it in Catalunya
Reserva de Boumort
The game reserve with the most deer in all Catalunya makes it a premier location for the rut. You will need a 4×4 to drive to the observation point, next to Refugi de Cuberes (a mountain hut with a basic restaurant). From Pobla de Segur (closest town) to Refugi de Cuberes it took about 2h to drive.
This game reserve is also special as it is one of the only places in Europe where all four types of vultures on the continent reproduce.
Every year around August or the beginning of September, a pdf is produced named “InfoBrama2021” (Here’s the 2020 edition). It shares the information in Boumort game reserve: observation points, self-driving routes and deer information.
If you would like more information or updated information before the InfoBrama pdf is released, get in touch directly at +34 973 654 716 or rncboumort@gencat.cat.
Having a guide here means you can get access to areas that aren’t open to the general public, as they’ve implemented strategies to make sure that the animals aren’t disturbed and that humans are only in designated areas.
As we had a private guide we were able to go on a 2h hike to the highest point where there was no calling but we got to see deer crossing the path – and we even got some snow!
We booked with Ramon from Amaroq Explorers and loved the day we spent there!
Where to sleep: Boutique hotel Casa Boumort in Sant Martí de Canals.
Parc de l’Alt Pirineu i Reserva de l’Alt Pallars
In this reserve, there are three observation points with rangers. One is next to the village of Gavàs, where you can park your car and walk about 800m. Here there is no ranger.
The other points that do have rangers are in Alós d’Isil and Port de la Bonaigua (next to Mare de Déu de les Ares).
Some of the accredited guides available in the area are: Obaga activitats and món natura pirineus.
Val d’Aran
The area has many deer, to the point that you can hear the roar from many places, sometimes even from within the village of Bossòst. At Val d’Aran there is no special observation point, it is a valley in the Pyrenees mountains.
Is deer roar an ethical wildlife experience in Catalunya?
The human vs wildlife issue is a very complex one. This is only a general explanation of the situation so readers can understand how the different parks and game reserves operate currently.
With the historical human killing of wolves and bears, deer have no natural predators, making their reproduction very easy.
At Val d’Aran there have been bears reintroduced. The current bear vs farmers issue is a hot topic in this area, farmers are learning to understand why the reintroduction of bears is important.
Without a natural predator for deer throughout pretty much the whole Catalan territory, excluding counted specimens of reintroduced bear, game reserves have opted for controlled hunting to protect the number of deer.
Having too many deer has a huge impact on the bushes and smaller animals that feed on them. The ecosystem isn’t naturally keeping a balance without wolves and bears.
Parc Natural del Cadí-Moixeró
Serra del catllaràs
Cadí-Moixerò
Parc Nacional d’Aigüestortes i Estany de Sant Maurici
Would you like to go see the deer mating one day? Let me know in the comments.
Planning a trip to South Africa but not sure where to start?
There’s a lot to see in South Africa, it is one of the most diverse countries in the world, from modern and cosmopolitan cities to breathtaking mountains ranges and savannahs.
Here’s the ideal itinerary for two weeks in South Africa. This guide covers the best things to do in Cape Town, Garden Route, Johannesburg, Kruger National Park and more including where to stay in each place.
I have lived in South Africa for 4.5 years and it was about time that I poured all my experience as a bespoke travel designer in Africa into bringing you this ultimate two week itinerary for South Africa.
In this itinerary you are going to find:
Cape Town
Cape Winelands
Garden Route
Johannesburg
Kruger National Park
Drakensberg Mountains
St Lucia, Hluhluwe and Sodwana Bay
This map was made with Wanderlog, a trip map maker
How to get here
There are two major international airports in South Africa: Johannesburg (JNB) and Cape Town (CPT). Most travellers will arrive at one of these.
South Africa is a very large country and my best recommendation is to fly into Johannesburg and out of Cape Town or the other way around. Depending on your flights you will complete this itinerary in reverse order and that’s completely fine as it makes sense both ways.
Sunrise over Cape Town from the Cable Car
Flight prices from Europe are between 490€ return to anything around 950€ return during peak season at the time of writing. Airlines that fly into SA include: KLM, Air France, British Airways, Qatar, Emirates and Turkish Airlines.
How to move around
Owing to the large size of the country you will need to make use of a mix of transportation methods. For the purposes of this trip, the country can be split into two main areas, Western Cape and Gauteng/Limpopo/Mpumalanga.
Between the two areas, you will need a flight (domestic, quite cheap) or to drive upwards of 13hours.
Budget friendly option: BazBus is a scheduled bus that connects major locations in South Africa, with door-to-door service to many hostels. It is a great way to move around if you’re travelling solo or want to save money but it does offer less flexibility, as you can only be dropped off at the hotels and hostels on their route or one that’s very close by.
Middle Road: Car rental is inexpensive compared to many other countries and roads are mostly in good condition in landmark areas. I especially recommend the use of a car around Cape Town, the Winelands and the Garden Route as it allows your days to be organized in your preferred way.
Private Transfer: if you don’t want to drive around yourself then there are private transfers available to ferry you to the available attractions. In major cities like Cape Town, Johannesburg and surrounds, you can book full day private or group activities. I recommend using private transfers between Kruger, as you are only going to one or two lodges and not moving while you’re there, in which case the car rental price for 2-5 days often turns out more expensive than booking one-way transfers between the points.
How much does a trip to South Africa cost
South Africa is a great budget destination as the currency is weak compared to euros or dollars. It is also a dual country in which accommodation and flight prices are comparable to Europe, but food and daily activities are really cheap in comparison.
As always it will depend on what you spend and the type of hotels and activities you book during your stay.
What makes South Africa’s itinerary expensive are the nights on safari. A lodge can range from 250€ per person per night (on a fully inclusive/full board and activities basis) to +1000€ pp/pn.
On a budget 7 to 9 day trip to SA you should expect to spend 1500€ pp not including international flights.
For 2 weeks in South Africa to 3 weeks in South Africa the budget you should expect to pay is anything between 2000€ to 3500€ per person.
The great thing about SA is that in Cape Town, the Garden Route, the Winelands and Johannesburg you can find great accommodation at very competitive rates, making it easier to go and spend 2 nights on safari and without bringing the price of the entire trip up dramatically.
One week in South Africa: the best itinerary
Day 1 – 3: Cape Town and surrounds
Day 3 – 4: Johannesburg
Day 4 – 7: Safari and surrounds
Two Weeks in South Africa: The Ultimate Itinerary
Day 1 – 3: Cape Town
Day 4 – 5: Cape Winelands
Day 6 – 10: Garden Route
Day 10 – 11: Johannesburg
Day 11 – 14: Safari
Day 1 in Cape Town: V&A Waterfront, Robben Island, Bo-Kaap
Start your Cape Town adventure by doing some of the most popular and justifiably famous activities. Head up to the Bo-Kaap Neighbourhood. Bo-Kaap is the Cape Malay neighbourhood with its famous colourful houses and cobbled streets.
This quarter is where many years ago rental houses were built and leased to slaves. Today it is still a multicultural area with many residents identifying as Muslim.
Pro tip: book a cooking class at Lekka Kombuis for the most local experience ever (you get to eat the food and take the recipes home with you!)
Head to the Victoria & Alfred Waterfront for a walk around the harbour. There are many restaurants with beautiful views of the oceans or Table Mountain and plenty of shops from curios to commercial fashion boutiques.
If you want to visit Robben Island (Where Mandela was imprisoned for 27 years) you should book a ticket in advance. Tours depart from the V&A Harbour many times daily.
Another activity you can do from here is to book a yacht half-day trip or a helicopter flip (the 12 minute one will give you a great idea of the city and they have scheduled tours if you’re open to sharing with others).
End your day in Camps Bay, one of the most beautiful neighbourhoods of Cape Town with stunning views of Camps Bay beach and a frontline view of the sunset. Find a restaurant on the Camps Bay strip and enjoy the African sunset with a glass in hand.
Dining options: Chinchilla for a drink before eating and views
Day 2 in Cape Town: Hiking Table Mountain and Kirstenbosch Gardens
Cape Town is known for the three peaks that make its skyline so famous (left to right Devil’s Peak, Table Mountain and Lion’s Head). A visit to the city is not complete without a trip up Table Mountain.
You have a cable car that takes you to the top where there’s a restaurant and a walkway circuit to stroll around and you’ll get to meet the Dassies.
View of Table Mountain from the top of Lion’s Head
If you’re into hiking there are many different and exceptionally beautiful routes that go to the top, my personal favourite is Kasteelpoort. From the top of Kasteelpoort you’d still need to walk on a mostly flat
Table Mountain top until you got to the cable car if you want to take a ride down instead of hiking down. If you’re travelling alone, find a group to hike with and get the latest recommendations for safety in the mountains. It’s always better to go with some locals or in a big group for safety.
Once you’re done go to Kirstenbosch Botanical gardens. There are various paths and you’ll see the endemic flora and many proteas, the national flower. Kirstenbosch is a great place for a picnic too.
If you’re feeling like another typical Cape Town activity, leave enough time before sunset to enjoy Lion’s Head hiking trail.
Lion’s Head at sunrise – Seen from Table Mountain
It takes between 40 minutes and 1h to hike up, and it is a very common activity for locals and tourists alike as you get to see the sun setting over the ocean on one side with Table Mountain in the background behind you.
Make sure you have enough time for the walk, some time at the top and to get down before the sun sets completely.
Day 3: Cape peninsula day trip
This is one of the must-do day trips from Cape Town for the exceptionally pretty coastal views. Start the day off by driving down the Atlantic Seaboard, the group of neighbourhoods facing the ocean, including Camps Bay where you dined on the first night.
On arrival at Hout Bay, you can stop at the harbour and enjoy an optional boat tour of around 40min where you get to meet the local seals.
Continue your drive down the most scenic road in South Africa (if you pay attention you’ll recognise it from some BMW or Audi ads you’ll have seen before!).
Chapman’s peak is a pleasure to drive and with so many viewpoints to stop that it can take you shorter or longer to drive. I definitely would recommend stopping at least 2 different viewpoints as the views are quite different.
When you’re on the other side head to Kalk Bay for lunch in one of the adorable cafes on the main road. Kalk Bay has many local boutique shops and a plethora of cute restaurants, giving it a small village atmosphere.
After a delicious lunch head down to St James beach to see the colourful beach bungalows that remind me of the Brighton beach ones in Australia.
After St James head down south towards the Cape Peninsula, but before you arrive there’s the cutest pit stop. Have you heard of the penguins of Boulders Beach? No? It’s time we change that.
This beach is famous for being the home of many cute penguins. There are different boardwalks you can walk around to take a look at them, and if you can’t deal with their cuteness you can pay an entrance fee to the actual beach and swim with them (Around them. As always no touching involved).
Head to Cape Point and the Cape of Good Hope. Here’s where the famous sign that separates the Indian and Pacific’s oceans is.
First time in South Africa in 2016!
Psst, in reality, that point is further up the coast! The beaches and nature in the Cape Peninsula are so worth the visit!
Day 4 first day at the Cape Winelands
Only 40 minutes away from Cape Town we find a magical and scenic place known as the Cape Winelands. If you’re into wine, beautiful landscapes and gourmet food – well, I’m sure you know where I’m going with this.
This is a must-do stop.
Drive to Babylonstoren, the first stop on this route. They have one of my favourite vineyards.
Their gardens are enormous and perfect to get a morning stroll in and take some photos on the cacti garden. Finish up in their Greenhouse restaurant for a healthy and earthy breakfast or coffee.
Head to Stellenbosch for a walk around the old town. It is full of art galleries and curio shops. After driving to Warwick wines where they offer picnics and wine pairings under umbrellas and with comfortable pillows for backrests.
Another favourite of mine is Boschendal with its infinite gardens, deli supermarkets and healthy food bowls which are to die for!
There are two main villages in the Cape Winelands, Stellenbosch and Franschhoek. It comes down to preference but I prefer Franschhoek for my accommodation.
I like to stay within the town or very close by so that I can have a drink or grab a bite nearby and walk around the beautiful town. It reminds me of an idyllic summer in Europe – which may be why I like it so much.
Where to eat in Franschhoek: Protegee for relaxed fine dining
Embarking on a full day wine tram tour, is arguably the best activity to do in the Winelands. If you’re not into wine don’t worry, there’s delicious food and other pairings at every winery you’ll visit.
You need to book tickets in advance and the trams depart from Franschhoek. Upon booking you’ll need to pick one of the 6 colour lines that will take you around a different set of wineries for the day.
It is a great way to enjoy many of the delicious South African wines without being a danger on the road. Again, this is why staying in Franschhoek is super convenient as you can walk to your accommodation and back.
I recommend trying either the purple or orange lines, as these have some of my favourite wineries or restaurants en route. Haute Cabriere is my all-time favourite for lunch or dinner, their food is delicious!
Day 6 to 10: A road trip along the Garden route
The Garden Route is an incredibly scenic road trip, offering a famous and diverse coastline stretching on for 300km. Ideal for self-drivers and to stay every night or every two in a different town, exploring the country while you drive.
Start from the Winelands and drive to Oudtshoorn. Here you’ll find the Cango Caves, one of the biggest caves I’ve seen.
Don’t forget to pick their adventure ticket which takes you to many different and amazing little caves not visited on the general tour. There’s also a little slide built into the rocks at the very end. It can get a bit claustrophobic during that last part, so my mum decided not to do that bit of the tour (about 2 minutes).
Visit Wilderness for that small town atmosphere, Knysna for their waterfront market and lagoons that characterize the area. Do bungy jumping from Bloukrans Bridge.
You have the option to drive back to Cape Town (around 6-7h) or to drive to Qqebeha (PLZ) and get a flight there to Johannesburg.
Day 10: Johannesburg and the apartheid museum
Johannesburg is 2h flight away and there are flights virtually every hour connecting with Cape Town. Grab an early flight to be able to explore Johannesburg for a full day.
Welcome to the forest city of Johannesburg, where trees are everywhere.
The history of South Africa and apartheid is still very recent for many people alive today, and Nelson Mandela is a name that has been made famous around the world. Go to the apartheid museum to learn more about the country’s divisive history.
Once you’re done, go to Soweto for an organized walking or biking tour. Soweto was a black only neighbourhood designated by the white government during Apartheid and ended up becoming the largest black only city in South Africa at the time. Learn the full story while you walk around the quirky streets.
Where to go: check out the Living Jozi rooftop in Maboneng and the Hallmark House rooftop.
Day 11 – 13 Time to go on safari – Kruger National Park
Finally time to see the big five! The big 5 are lions, buffalo, rhinos, elephants and leopards. They’re named the big 5 as they are the 5 animals that are the most dangerous to hunt and become even more dangerous if hurt.
There are many game reserves with the big 5 around Johannesburg (like Welgevonden Game Reserve) but the most famous and ideal for first (and 20th) time safari-goers is the Kruger National Park.
How to get to the Kruger
The Kruger is as big as Wales or Israel, so you won’t cover the whole thing unless you have a couple of months to spare for this alone. The most common area you’ll visit in Kruger is centred around 3 airports. In the north, we have Hoedspruit (HDS) and in the south Nelspruit/Mbombela (MQP) and Skukuza (SKZ).
Credit: Degruyter.com
Budget: the most inexpensive way to get to Kruger is to book a passage on Ashton’s tours daily shuttles (no longer daily at the time of writing owing to covid). They depart at around 6 am from OR Tambo Airport which means that you need to spend a night in Johannesburg if you’re entering via Johannesburg before you can head to Kruger.
If you’re going to Hoedspruit, the shuttle takes 6h to 7h. The trip is in an air-conditioned shuttle with a couple of stops. If you’re going to the Mbombela area the shuttle takes between 4 and 5 hours.
Mid range to luxury: the quickest way to get to Kruger is to fly there. Depending on the time of year, flights have different prices but you can expect to pay around R6000 (350€) for a return flight from Johannesburg or Cape Town.
Paying between 300-450€ per person increases the cost of the trip heavily. Finding more affordable flights is best done with enough time and not always possible.
Understanding the different Kruger areas and accommodation options
The Kruger National Park has a public area with bungalows and campsites, which is the national park. Adjacent to the public area we find the private concessions. These concessions do not have fences between the national park and them, meaning that the animals roam freely and get to decide where they spend their time.
A common misconception is to blame the lodges or rangers if you don’t get to see the big 5 or a certain animal during the stay. All animals are free and they move around as they please, crossing different areas in their migration and territorial patterns.
nThambo Tree house chalets in Klaserie Private Concession
The Kruger is a great first timer destination as there is a large number of animals and generally you can see the big 5 and much more in just two nights (this has been my experience on many occasions, but I’ve also missed one or two of the big 5 animals on a two-night stay – it is chance you’ll have to take and of course, increasing the number of nights improves your chances).
In the private concessions, you will find many luxury lodges. These offer full board plus activities (safaris) or a fully inclusive basis (including alcoholic drinks).
Not only do these lodges vary in their pricing (anything from 250€ per person per night to +1000€ pp/pn) but having an expertly trained ranger and tracker to help find the animals increases your chances of seeing the big 5 dramatically.
You’ll also learn a lot by listening to their explanations on animal behaviour and the savannah flora.
How lodges work on safari in South Africa
Your accommodation includes your room, 3 meals a day and 2 safaris a day. If you’re on a fully inclusive package, it also includes your sundowner drinks and any alcoholic drinks you order.
Here’s a standard safari schedule for one day:
Timetables can move +-30 min depending on the season
5h30: Wake up call
5h45 – 6h00: Quick coffee, tea and rusks (hard biscotti to dip in tea/coffee)
6h00 – 9h00: Morning game drive. Includes pit stop for coffee, tea and snacks
9h00: Breakfast back at the lodge
10h00 – 13h00: Free time
13h00: Some lodges offer lunch, where others offer high tea only. I can guarantee you won’t go hungry!
14h30: High tea
15h00 – 18h00: Afternoon game drive. Includes sundowner drinks
19h00: Dinner
The minimum stay is 2 nights so you can have 4 game drives. The ideal is 3 but this depends on your budget and if you have the capacity to have 4 days of safari then you can explore 2 different lodges and see different areas of the park which, I’ll remind you again, is bigger than the whole of Israel.
Where to stay in the Kruger
Outside the Kruger
You can stay outside of the park, self-driving into the Kruger or booking a safari from your accommodation as an extra.
Hoedspruit:
Khaya Ndlovu, strating at R2 450 (144€) per person per night
This scenic route takes you to the third biggest canyon in the world (and the biggest green canyon), with many viewpoints and waterfalls. Cool right?
Doing the panorama route half-day or full-day private tour or self-drive will be a great decompression activity after the strict schedules while on safari. It is a favourite spot of the locals for its beauty and the rawness of the landscape.
Visit the Blyde river canyon, the three rondavels, God’s window and Bourke’s luck potholes. Some amazing waterfalls are Mac Mac falls, Lisbon falls or Berlin falls.
Depending on how tired you are and your eagerness to explore you can include more or fewer of those attractions to make it into a full day or half-day tour.
Oliver’s lodge, starting at R1 400 (82,25€) per person per night
South Africa itinerary for 3 weeks
If you have additional days and would like to add another destination to your incredibly diverse trip to South Africa, make sure to include some of the below destinations, based on your personal preferences.
Drakensberg
Known to many as ‘the Berg’, this dramatic mountain range is in my opinion the most spectacular the country has to offer (and that’s saying a lot in this immense country!).
With a name that means “mountain of dragons”, the Berg surrounds the East side of Lesotho (one of the two countries inside of South Africa, the other one is Eswatini/Swaziland) and offers views like this one.
If you enjoy hiking like me you should definitely squeeze in a visit for a few days. 2-3 days will give you enough time to go on a couple of amazing hikes in the area.
Tugela falls hike
St Lucia Hluhluwe and Sodwana bay
Visit this area north of Durban on the coast to Mozambique to find a jungle and wetland ecosystem. St Lucia is known for Hluhluwe National Park and its wetlands full of crocodiles and hippos. There are other animals like rhinos in the area as well as private game reserves with the big 5 in a completely different vegetation system to the Kruger.
Sodwana Bay is a paradise for snorkelers and scuba divers with plenty of underwater life as well as the chance to see whale sharks if visiting during the correct season!
Safety in SA
Discussing a trip to South Africa, safety cannot be dismissed. South Africa is a dangerous country (only behind South American cities in violence) but what you see as a tourist and the areas you visit are mostly safe.
Do not walk (always drive or uber), do not be alone at night and do not flash cameras or iPhones. Be aware of people telling you they love your shoes or similar interactions as someone else is probably trying to pick your pockets while you’re distracted.
Now, that said I’ve been here for 4.5 years and have never encountered any problems. Adhere to the rules like you would in any other place and you’ll be safe.
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